[FAQ Thinker] Print Problems

When you find your machine has problems. You can have a look at this section
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[FAQ Thinker] Print Problems

Post by Eryone » Sat May 11, 2019 2:51 pm

Print Problems
1.If you find the nozzle no filament out or filament under extrusion
1)Check the filament
Sometimes the end of the filament slipped under another coil
Then it will cause the filament windings. You need to check
Remember: there are only three valid positions for the end of a filament spool: Loaded and ready to go in a printer, in your hand after you took it out or secured to the spool with the holes on the edge or securely taped to it.
Use the cold pull you can easy to clean the clogged hotend.
Refer to this video by Nerd:

2)Check your filament temp is correct or not
You can try to print the temp tower to get the correct temp range of it.
Refer to the files(by stoempie Aug 21, 2017):
Refer to this video modify the gcode:
Temp tower gcode test file(Included PLA and PETG filament test file):
Temp tower test.zip
(1.86 MiB) Downloaded 923 times
MD5: 0C294E709A70FD4C4DBF8478B89D94DD

3)Check your slice retract setting
The firmware default Extruder speed limited to 25mm/s
It means you need to increase it at first.

We suggest you set the retract speed to 40mm/s on the thinker 3d printer
You need to set the retract distance to 4~6mm would be perfect.
Then if it allows, you need to set the extra restart distance to 0.4mm.

4.)Check your PTFE tube is deep enough in the hotend
If you don't check it then it may show this result:It might be getting stuck in the gap between the throat and the heat
block connecting the nozzle there should not be a big plug on the end like that.

5)You need to set the correct nozzle diameter(The default is 0.4mm)

6)You need to set the correct filament diameter(1.75mm) at your slice profile
(Cura default profile use 2.85mm filament. In actual, your filament diameter is 1.75mm. )

7)Check your feeder gear
If you don't clean the feeder gear and it prints a long time then the broken filament stay the clearance between the gear

8)Check your thermistor of the hotend insert correct and LCD shows the correct temp

9)If your nozzle hit the heatbed then it will be broken and the hotend will under extrusion
We suggest when you leveling you heatbed, you need to keep an eye on it. Don't let it hit your heated

10)Check your hotend
If you find your hotend leaking filament then you need to replace it and then it won't under extrusion

11)Check your cooling system fan
If you find your cooling system fan broken then it will cause it clogged because of the hotend overheating.

2.Layer shift
Layer shift will damage your printing.No one wants to experience this problem but here are the suggestions if you encounter it.
1)Check your belt
If your belt is too loose /tight then it will cause the printer movement abnormal
It will cause the X/Y axis to skip at a random point.

2)Check your motor temperature
If you find your motor temperature is overheating(70C) or cold(20C, it based on your locations) then it means its status abnormal. The normal
of the motor, the surface should be warm when it is under moving.
The issue root is your motor driver board voltage incorrect. We suggest you use the multimeter to check it. (The recommended
voltage is 1.0~1.1V)
*If you find you can't increase the vref of the driver board. Maybe the tmc driver board broken, try to replace this one and test it again.
Default vref:
X axis:1.0V
E axis:0.9V

3)Check your slice setting
You need to check your travel speed at first.
We suggest you set the travel speed to no more than 130mm/s
Add these lines to the starting code:

Code: Select all

M201 X1000 Y1000 Z1000 E5000 ; sets maximum accelerations, mm/sec^2
M203 X200 Y200 Z12 E120 ; sets maximum feedrates, mm/sec
M204 P1250 R1250 T1250 ; sets acceleration (P, T) and retract acceleration (R), mm/sec^2
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E1.50 ; sets the jerk limits, mm/sec
M205 S0 T0 ; sets the minimum extruding and travel feed rate, mm/sec
Start code_1.png
Start code_1.png (28.49 KiB) Viewed 5425 times
3.0 Fialment doesn't sticking to the bed
1. Level your bed at first
Level.jpg (26.85 KiB) Viewed 1943 times
2. Clean your bed with IPA

3. If this problem happened after a few months of use.
You can refer to this pic. The nozzle hit by the bed then it looks like this:
Broken nozzle.png
Broken nozzle.png (495.43 KiB) Viewed 1943 times
The solution is to replace the nozzle.

4. Check your cooling fan setting
If you set the cooling fan speed at 100% at the first layer then it will cause it under extrusion
We suggest you open the cooling fan after 3 layers later

3.1 Z axis wobbling or wheel doesn't touch the aluminum frame
The new version thinkerS(1.1 and the higher version) improved this problem so you don't need to mount the eccentric nut

We suggest you mount the eccentric nut for your printer.
Guide by Alessio Marano

The Guide of him:
4. The print object warped(Especial the edge of the edge)
This problem is a common problem.
It based on the filament type and your print object.
1). You can add the Brim or raft for it then it should improve the warping problem.
2). Check your heated bed leveling.
If your leveling incorrect then you will get a bad result. Try to level it again and then test it.

5.Top layer rough/bad
You should check the top layer setting(The top layer number)
We recommend you set the top layer number to more than 5 then you can get a better result.

6. It is hard to remove the object when the print finished
When your printer finished the print, the heated bed still hot. You just need to wait a moment.
Then the temperature of the heated bed under 40℃,you can remove it off easily and it will not break the surface of the prints.


7.The printing exist the randomly stopped problem
This problem caused by the incorrect slice setting or the slicing software.
You can check these:
1) If you added the "G4" code at your gcode then it will stop print a few times then continue
Refer more info about the "G4" code, please refer to:
2) If you haven't find the "G4" code at your gcode. You can choose another slicing software for a test.
eg: If you are using the Cura 4.1 as usual. You can use the slic3r then export the gcode and print it.
3) You can try to use another SD card for a test. Also, the sd card reader broken will also cause this problem(It will affect all the SD card
when you insert the SD card into it)

8.The extruder won't work

This problem happened when I finished the firmware upload
Problem reason and how to solve it:
1) The firmware pin configuration is incorrect
You can compare the pins_rambo.h of yours and the official one then you can know which line is incorrect.

1) The extruder is normal when you control it at manual
2) The extruder is normal when the printer run nozzle wipe gcode
3) After the printer runs the nozzle wipe gcode finished. It stops suddenly

Reason:TMC2208 is not compatible with the linear advance feature
You can find this line at configuration_adv.h then you can use the "//" uncomment it
LIN_ADVANCE.png (37.91 KiB) Viewed 5427 times
Or you can use the "M900 K0" to disable it. Please don't foget to use the "M500" to save it

This problem happened when it is under printing
Problem reason and how to solve it:
1) The cable of the extruder loose
You can take a look at the stepper motor and replug it.

2) The temperature of the nozzle is incorrect
If the nozzle temperature is lower than 170C then the extruder won't move
You can check the hotend thermistor is loose or broken(If you found the thermistor was out of the heated block then you should tighten it again :D )

1. You can check the TMC2208 of the motherboard Vref is normal or not
2. You can try to exchange the TMC2208 of the E0 port and X-axis port
Then you know the TMC2208 is good or broken

9.Have A Glob Filament Stuck To The Hotend
glob to the hotend.png
glob to the hotend.png (435.67 KiB) Viewed 202 times
This usually happens, if the bed is not level and the filament is not adhering to the bed properly.
How to clean this glob from the hot-end::
-Firstly, remove Stock Blower Fan Duct then heat up the hot-end about 230c-240C, use a pair of pliers to carefully pull on the globs.
-Be extra cares around the thermistor wires. use a small brass to clean the heat block. after cleaning put silicon block on the heat block.
-If the hot-end doesn't heat up, the lcd showing hot-end temp 0, maybe the thermistor broken or damaged, use a multimeter and check the resistance of the thermistor, it should be 1000 ohms. and about the heat-cartridge , the resistance should be 13-14 ohms

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